Nuptials: Herero Style

So, one of the things that I am loving the most about Namibia thus far is that it has this really splendid cultural blend of different ethnic and tribal groups. There are people groups such as the Owambo, Kavango, Damara, San, and many others…and then there are the Hereros. Each tribal/ethnic groups has their own distinct customs and dialect, and a native Namibian can understand most all of the languages, if not speak many of them. (I can half pick up if someone is speaking Owambo or Oshiwambo because that is the native language of the family that I live with, or Damara because it involves lots of clicking noises, but otherwise I am at a loss in distinguishing between dialects.)

Each group also has their own distinct traditional dress, and that is where my love of the Herero comes in. Herero women (when dressing in traditional garb) wear these really elaborate and massive dresses that almost resemble some kind of colonial style dress in all of the many layers…but the best part is the headpiece. It’s really called a duke (that’s spelled phonetically, and that’s all I’ve got for ya) and it’s shaped kind of like horns. They’re awesome, and my mission is to get to wear one before I leave. (dream big) Apparently the whole get up takes a couple of hours to get into, so maybe not the new fashion trend for my jeans and t-shirt self, but I can admire from afar…  

Anyways, the point is, I got invited the other weekend to go with a friend to a traditional Herero wedding. This is not just a couple hours on a Saturday deal, but a whole weekend shindig that involves lots of eating, drinking, dancing, and all kinds of merriment. Basically, this is how it goes: Friday after work, everyone drives out to the location of the wedding and the cows are let out that are to be paid as the dowry. Due to transmission troubles our posse did not get to leave until early Saturday morning, so the initial cow bit was missed…but here are the chronicles of a traditional Herero wedding weekend:

First, you drive way out into the desert…I mean, way out…into the bush. A Herero friend attempting to explain the process to me, prior to departure, kept calling it a “bush wedding”. When we got there they had already had some kind of something involving killing the cows that had been let out the night before. That is when we entered the scene, upon preparation of said cows, as the food for the great many people that were there.

Exhibit A:

During the whole weekend, the bride is like the prize that is being awaited to be won. She and her guests stay on one side for most of the weekend, and the groom and his guests camp on the other side. (Most Hereros are experienced campers, cause that’s just how they roll.) The bride only comes out of her little house in the homestead a couple of times during the weekend, and she is all covered up and you can’t actually see her…the groom and his friends stay on the other side and are supposed to be all kinds of quiet for fear of upsetting the bride's parents, lest they decide not to actually give her over on Sunday. (This particular couple had actually already gotten married by a judge, so the party was at the groom’s side for most of the time.)

During the course of the weekend there are several small ceremonial things that happen intermittently throughout. One really cool one involves all of the women getting together and having this chanting and singing contest. The “elders”, so the speak, lead this time and have these board stomper things on their feet to keep time to their chants. It’s really cool.

(the sun was intense)

During the days there is lots of sitting and lots of meat eating…

And during the nights, there is loads of merriment indeed. I think I danced more in one weekend than I have maybe ever. :) I was even told by a couple of Namibians that I have rhythm in me...I asked them to write that down and sign it so I can inscribe it into a plaque when I get home...

Namibian music is wonderful, and I’m in the process of acquiring loads of it. Below is a little video clip of some kids on the dance floor one night. It was really dark, so it doesn’t do the boys justice, but they could move… (Note to self: the camera does not auto-correct when turned sideways.)

The last morning was the giving away of the bride. She is taken out of the homestead, thronged by her family and friends, and then given to the groom. It is beautiful pandemonium.

All in all, a traditional Herero wedding is a good time. I highly recommend it. :)

Peace.